Beyond Tacos: The Mexican Delicacies Most Expats Never Try

Aug 20

3 min read

Updated: 5 days ago

Mexican Food Culture for Expats, the companion piece to this one, covers the everyday rhythm of eating here: markets, comida corrida, mealtimes. This post is about the specific dishes that don't show up on that everyday table, the ones that make longtime expats say "you have to try this" with a slightly mischievous look. Some of these are genuinely delicious. A couple are an acquired taste. All of them are worth knowing about before someone hands you a plate and watches your reaction.

Worth booking a proper food tour for this one rather than guessing — Viator lists several in most of the cities covered here.

Chapulines: Grasshoppers, and They're Actually Good

Toasted, seasoned grasshoppers are an Oaxacan staple, sold by the cupful in markets and sometimes as a topping on tlayudas or tacos. They're crunchy, salty, and usually seasoned with lime, chile, and garlic, tasting closer to a savory chip than anything resembling what your brain expects from the word grasshopper. Oaxaca City and the surrounding valley are the place to try them fresh; smaller amounts show up in specialty shops in other cities too.

Huitlacoche: The Fungus That Chefs Charge Extra For

Corn smut, a fungus that grows on corn kernels, is considered a delicacy here and shows up in quesadillas, soups, and as a filling on its own. It has an earthy, almost mushroom-and-corn flavor that's genuinely good once you get past the description. Elsewhere in the world this fungus is treated as a crop disease and destroyed; here it's a premium ingredient that costs more per kilo than the corn it grows on.

Escamoles: Ant Larvae, and Yes, They're Called Mexican Caviar

This one is rarer and pricier: the larvae of a specific species of ant, harvested from the roots of agave plants, sautéed in butter with epazote, and served in tacos. The texture is closer to a soft, buttery cottage cheese than anything insect-like, and the flavor is mild and nutty. It's seasonal (spring, mainly) and not cheap, running well above the price of most other taco fillings, but it's a genuine bucket-list dish if you want to say you tried it.

Pulque: The Drink That Predates Tequila

Pulque is a fermented, slightly viscous drink made from the sap of the maguey plant, and it's been made here since before the Spanish arrived. It has a mild alcohol content, a tangy, slightly sour taste, and a texture that takes some getting used to. Pulquerías, bars dedicated to the drink, are having something of a revival in Mexico City and a few other cities, often serving flavored versions (curados) with fruit or nuts blended in, which is the easier entry point if straight pulque isn't for you.

Tlayudas: The Oaxacan Dish That's Basically a Mexican Pizza

A tlayuda is a large, thin, crisped tortilla topped with refried beans, quesillo (Oaxacan string cheese), cabbage, avocado, and a choice of meat, then folded or eaten open-faced off a grill. It's filling enough to be a full meal for two people and it's one of the most satisfying street food orders in the country. Oaxaca City does it best and cheapest, usually $60 to $100 pesos for a full one.

Mixiotes: Meat Steamed in Agave Paper

Traditionally lamb or chicken marinated in a chile and spice paste, wrapped in the papery membrane from an agave leaf, and steamed for hours until it falls apart. The agave paper imparts a subtle flavor you won't get any other way, and it's common at Sunday markets and family gatherings, particularly in central Mexico. Ask for it at a market comedor rather than a restaurant; it's a home-cooking dish that restaurants rarely do as well.

How to Actually Try These Without Feeling Like a Tourist

Markets and street stalls are almost always the right venue, not sit-down restaurants aimed at visitors. Go with a local friend or a Spanish-speaking companion the first time if you can, since some of these (especially escamoles and pulque) are seasonal or vendor-specific and asking around gets you to the good stuff faster than searching online. And say yes when someone offers you a taste of something unfamiliar; that's usually how the best food discoveries here actually happen.

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