The Mezcal of It All

May 21

4 min read

Updated: Aug 29

I did not understand mezcal at all before I moved to Mexico. I thought of it as the one with the worm, a gimmick shot people did on spring break, roughly interchangeable with tequila but smokier. That understanding lasted about one visit to a proper mezcaleria, where a bartender in Oaxaca patiently corrected almost everything I thought I knew.

A proper mezcal tasting tour is worth booking through Viator rather than guessing at a random bar your first week.

Tequila is technically a type of mezcal, made specifically from blue agave and almost always in Jalisco. Mezcal is the broader category, made from dozens of different agave varieties, espadin is the most common and most affordable, but tobala, madrecuixe, and others produce wildly different flavors, and it is produced across several states, with Oaxaca being the most famous but Guerrero, Durango, and others also producing serious mezcal. The smokiness comes from the traditional production method, roasting the agave hearts in underground pits lined with lava rock, which is a completely different process from how tequila is typically made today.

The worm thing is mostly a marketing gimmick from decades ago aimed at export markets, not a traditional practice among people who actually drink mezcal seriously. You will not find it in a good mezcaleria, and if you see it in a bottle sold to tourists, that is usually a sign of a low quality product built around the novelty rather than the spirit itself.

How it is actually meant to be drunk surprised me too. Good mezcal is sipped slowly, not shot, often with a side of sal de gusano, a salt mixed with ground chile and dried agave worm, a genuine traditional pairing distinct from the tourist gimmick, and orange slices. The ritual matters as much as the drink, you are meant to slow down, taste, notice the specific smokiness or fruitiness of that particular batch, and treat it more like a good whiskey tasting than a party shot.

Prices vary enormously and mostly track how the agave was grown and harvested. Mass produced espadin mezcal is genuinely affordable and good. Small batch mezcal from wild or slow growing agave varieties, some of which take decades to mature before harvest, can run considerably more, and rightly so given the labor and time involved. If you are paying tourist shot prices for something poured out of an unlabeled bottle at a beach bar, you are not getting the real thing regardless of what they call it.

For anyone living here or visiting long enough to care, my actual advice is to find a real mezcaleria in whatever city you are in rather than judging the spirit off a bad shot somewhere touristy. Ask whoever is working what is good that week, most good spots rotate their selection and are happy to talk you through a few small pours before you commit to a full glass. It changed how I think about the drink entirely, from the thing with the worm to genuinely one of my favorite things about living here.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does real mezcal have a worm in the bottle?

No. The worm is mostly a marketing gimmick from decades ago aimed at export markets, not a traditional practice among serious drinkers. If you see it in a bottle sold to tourists, that is usually a sign of a lower quality product.

How should you drink mezcal in Mexico?

Sip it slowly rather than shooting it. It is often served with orange slices and sal de gusano, and the ritual matters as much as the spirit. Ask the person serving how they recommend drinking a particular bottle.

What is sal de gusano?

Sal de gusano is a traditional salt mixed with ground chile and dried agave worm, served alongside mezcal. It is a real pairing that is separate from the tourist gimmick of a worm in the bottle. Try it with orange slices between sips.

Why is some mezcal so much more expensive than others?

Price mostly tracks how the agave was grown and harvested. Mass produced espadin is affordable and good, while small batch mezcal from wild or slow growing agave, some of which takes decades to mature, can cost considerably more, and that difference is usually explained by the work behind it.

How do I find good mezcal as a newcomer?

Find a proper mezcaleria in your city instead of judging the spirit from a bad shot at a tourist bar. Ask whoever is working what is good this week, since good spots rotate selections and are usually happy to let you taste before choosing.

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The most useful resources for planning your Mexico move:

📖 The Master Guide ($47), 22,500+ words, 70+ topics, the most complete Mexico relocation reference available. Updated continuously: see the guides and toolkits

📋 180-Day Action System ($37), phase-by-phase checklist from first research through your first month as a resident: see the guides and toolkits

🏨 Book your scouting trip. Booking.com for free-cancellation accommodation: search hotels on Booking.com

🎟️ Viator, guided tours and experiences to orient yourself in any Mexican city: book tours on Viator

📞 Mexico Reality Check ($149), 1 hour with Paul covering your specific situation, budget, and whether Mexico is genuinely right for you: book a Reality Check

About Paul Green

Paul Green moved from the US to Guanajuato, Mexico in 2018. He has guided many expats through every stage of the Mexico move, from first research through 90-day setup. My Mexico Move is the site he wished had existed when he made the move. All 176+ guides on this site are written from firsthand experience, not research. Questions are always welcome at paul@mymexicomove.com.